This Buttery Dessert Is the "Most Important Contribution" to Canadian Identity
Serious Eats / Vy TranWalk into just about any bakery, grocery store, or farmstand in Canada, and you’ll probably see butter tarts sitting in the pastry case. With an all-butter crust and a gooey filling of brown sugar, butter, and eggs, the tarts have rich butterscotch notes that might remind you of a nut-free pecan pie. Though the butter tart isn't the most visually appealing or dressed up dessert, it's incredibly delicious and beloved by many Canadians—so much so that it was featured on a Canada Post stamp in 2019. “Forget the beaver, forget the glorious maple leaf, forget the majestic and haunting loon” a poster from a 2005 Library and Archives Canadian exhibit reads. “For all these years the country has completely overlooked the most important contribution to our identity as a nation, the butter tart.”Serious Eats / Vy TranWhere Did the Butter Tart Come From?I was born in Ontario, Canada—the very same province the butter tart is rumored to be from. Midland, Ontario claims to be the birthplace of the pastry; each summer, the town hosts the Best Butter Tart Festival, where more than 60,000 people flock for a taste of the country’s best butter tarts. Still, no one really knows for sure when or how the butter tart came to be. “The very first butter tart recipe may never be found,” writes journalist Sara Bonisteel in the New York Times, “because until recently cookbooks were not seen as items worth preserving.”Serious Eats / Vy TranThe Canadian Encyclopedia suggests that the pastry may have evolved from the French sugar pie that settlers would have made in the 17th century. Multiple sources, including Bonisteel, credit a 1900 cookbook titled Royal Victoria Cook Book with publishing the first known butter tart recipe. Regardless of its origins, the butter tart remains popular in Canada today, and visitors to Ontario can take themselves on the Butter Tart Tour, which features more than 50 bakeries that sell the sweet.How to Make the Best Butter TartsThere’s great debate among Canadians on what makes the best butter tart: Should the filling be runny, or should it be thick and gooey? Raisins or no raisins? Much of it comes down to personal preference. The recipe I am sharing here produces butter tarts with very soft centers, but, like the ones I grew up eating while running around my grandparent’s cottage, they’re not runny. The recipe below produces my platonic ideal of a butter tart, with a filling that’s heavy on the caramel and molasses notes. For ease and convenience, I use a muffin tin to make my butter tarts, though you’re more than welcome to use individual tart tins if you have them. Keep reading for my tips on making the best butter tarts, plus the full recipe.Chill the crust. To ensure the crust doesn’t shrink and is as flaky as possible, I call for refrigerating the dough once you’ve pressed it into a muffin tin. This allows the gluten to relax, preventing it from shriveling up as the tarts bake, and also keeps the butter as cold as possible. As the tart bakes, the butter in the dough melts, creating tiny little pockets of steam that bake into crisp, flaky layers. Serious Eats / Vy TranReach for brown sugar. The combination of melted butter, dark brown sugar, and two eggs produces a gooey filling, and the dark brown sugar brings a molasses-forward flavor with notes of caramel and maple syrup. Using only one egg would produce a runnier, sweeter filling than I prefer. Some recipes also include corn syrup to make the filling runnier, but I like the robust flavor and texture created by brown sugar better. Add a touch of vinegar—and don’t forget the salt. Distilled white vinegar brings a kick of acidity, and together with the salt, cuts through the sweetness of the filling, resulting in a well-rounded dessert that isn’t too cloying.Serious Eats / Vy TranFeel free to add mix-ins. While I prefer the gooey filling to be the star of the show in my butter tarts, other mix-ins can certainly be added if you'd like. It’s common to add raisins or chopped walnuts or pecans or even mini chocolate chips to the butter tart filling for a different play on texture.How to Serve Butter TartsYou can serve butter tarts for any occasion, whether it’s with afternoon tea, alongside a cup of coffee for a mid-morning snack, or for dessert. My grandmother, Nanny, always keeps a batch of butter tarts in the freezer to pull out whenever she needs a treat to share with family or friends. As a child, I’d watch her pull them out in the morning before company arrived and let them thaw in the fridge. Butter tarts can either be served at room temperature or chilled, which gives them a wonderfully chewy texture—it’s all up to personal preference. For me, nothing beats biting into a cool, gooey butter tart right from the fridge.Serious Eats / Vy TranAdjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 425ºF (220ºC). Using nonstick spray, lightly grease two 12-cup muffin tins (or 12 individual tart tins); set aside.Serious Eats / Vy TranOn a generously floured work surface, use a rolling pin to roll pie crust dough into a 12- by 16-inch rectangle about 1/4-inch thick. Using a round 4-inch cookie cutter or jar, cut 18 circles out of the dough, rerolling the dough as needed, about 3 times. (If dough is too soft or sticky to work with, refrigerate briefly before continuing to roll.)Serious Eats / Vy TranWorking with one circle of dough at a time, press dough into the well of muffin tin, starting from the center to edges, until dough reaches the edge of the well. Repeat with remaining dough. Transfer muffin tin to fridge and chill until firm, about 30 minutes. (Alternately, use the same method to press the dough into 12 individual tart tins.)Serious Eats / Vy TranMeanwhile, prepare the filling: In a medium bowl, whisk melted butter and brown sugar together. Add eggs, vanilla extract, salt, and vinegar and whisk until smooth. (The filling will be fairly runny.)Serious Eats / Vy TranFill tart shells with 1 1/2 tablespoons of filling; do not overfill. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce oven temperature to 350ºF (175ºC). Continue baking until filling is bubbly, deeper in color, and pastry is golden, about 12 minutes. Remove from oven and allow tarts to cool in pan for 10 minutes; use a butter knife to gently separate tarts from the tin, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, about 1 hour.Serious Eats / Vy TranSpecial EquipmentTwo 12-cup muffin tins or twelve 2-inch by 1 1/4-inch individual tart tins, rolling pin, 4-inch round cookie cutter, whiskMake-Ahead and StorageButter tarts can be made up to one week in advance and stored in an airtight container at room temperature or in the fridge. (Refrigerated butter tarts will have a chewier texture.)To freeze butter tarts, transfer them to an airtight container or plastic zip-top bag once cooled. Butter tarts can be frozen for up to 3 months. Defrost in the refrigerator before serving.
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