Quick-Pickled Eggs
Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn The Simpsons, the bartender Moe always has a jar of pickled eggs at the ready. When Frankie, the health inspector, stops by the bar to conduct a routine check and samples an egg to make sure everything Moe serves is “hygienically stored,” the ill-fated inspector immediately meets his demise, falling to the floor in a dramatic, pickled-egg induced death.Such is the lore surrounding pickled eggs, a divisive dish that often elicits unenthusiastic groans. And though the murky, bubbling jar of green liquid on the counter at Moe’s doesn’t look the least bit appetizing, pickled eggs can be delicious—and totally safe to eat—when done right. These quick-pickled eggs, which are sweet and savory with a spicy kick from black peppercorns, are truly delicious. And because they’re quick-pickled and kept in the refrigerator, extremely unlikely to kill you.A Brief History of Pickled EggsThough it’s no longer as common to see pickled eggs at bars, they were once a staple snack at drinking establishments throughout Europe and the United States. It’s unclear where pickled eggs originated, as preserving eggs in vinegar was a common practice in England and much of western Europe as far back as the 16th century. Sue Shephard, author of Pickled, Potted, and Canned, notes that vinegar pickling became extremely popular in 16th century England when homemakers tired of salt-preserving. “When the English farmer’s wife had a glut of eggs,” she writes, “she would boil them hard, shell them, and pile them into earthenware or glass jars and pour over them scalding vinegar well seasoned with pepper, ginger, garlic, and allspice.” Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezPickled eggs were also a sought-after snack in 18th century Germany, and German immigrants helped spread the tradition to other countries. By the mid-1800s, jars of pickled eggs were common at German-owned bars in America, while British pubs served them alongside bags of crisps (potato chips). It’s unclear exactly why pickled eggs are so often served alongside alcohol; writing for Punch, journalist Talia Ralph suggests that there may be “some well-founded nutritional logic to the pairing of eggs and booze,” as eggs contain cysteine, an amino acid that can aid liver function, which in theory might help prevent hangovers. Pickled eggs may no longer be a hot ticket item, but some bars are doing their best to keep the tradition alive. The Cock Tavern in Hackney, London, still serves them—and bartenders keep a running tally on a black chalkboard of how fast their patrons can eat a pickled egg.Some US bars still have a batch of pickled eggs on hand, too. In Austin, Texas, patrons at The Haymaker can enjoy their beer with a house-pickled habanero egg, while in New York City, Jacob's Pickles preserves theirs in a spicy jalapeño brine and serves them as an appetizer.What Is Quick-Pickling?There are two common methods of pickling: vinegar pickling and lactic-acid fermentation. The first typically involves submerging and preserving food in a brine of vinegar, salt, and sugar; the acidity of the solution slowly draws water out from the food via osmosis. The brine gradually penetrates the food as it sits, creating a hostile environment for harmful bacteria and making the food safe to eat. Pickles made via lacto-fermentation develop their flavor as microbes convert the natural sugar molecules into lactic acid, turning sweet into sour and reducing the food’s pH to prevent bacterial growth, thus aiding in long-term preservation. Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezWhile other pickling methods can take weeks or months, quick pickling simply involves popping the ingredients in a jar, adding a vinegar-based brine, and refrigerating. Intended for short-term consumption, quick-pickled items must remain refrigerated at all times. Refrigeration inhibits bacterial growth and vinegar lowers the pH of preserved foods, so both the cool fridge temperatures and the acetic brine play an important role in quick-pickling. The vinegar brine also alters the flavor of the ingredients in the jar, adding a sour note often balanced by sugar, spices, or other components added to the pickling solution. You can quick-pickle lots of things, including asparagus, rhubarb, fennel, red onions, cucumbers, and of course, eggs. Some quick-pickles—especially vegetable recipes—use a cold brine, allowing the vegetables to retain their original texture and color. In contrast, a hot brine may cook and soften the ingredients ever-so-slightly. In the recipe below, I opt for a hot brine, as the heat helps dissolve the granulated sugar.Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez5 Tips for Making Quick-Pickled EggsUse a clean jar. While sterilization is not required for quick-pickling the way it is for traditional canning, a thorough wash with soap and water will remove any traces of bacteria, mold, or leftover food, creating a clean, safe environment for your pickled eggs. Use water and vinegar in your brine. Pickling your eggs in just vinegar can produce rubbery egg whites, as the acidic nature denatures and stiffens the egg white proteins as the eggs sit. Using a brine of both water and vinegar not only produces a more balanced pickling liquid, but also helps reduce the likelihood of rubbery pickled eggs. Use fresh dill. Fresh herbs contain flavor compounds that lose their potency during the drying process, so in this recipe, fresh is best. Plus, it’s a great opportunity to use all of that fresh dill from your summer herb garden (if you're lucky enough to have one). Allow the eggs to sit for at least three days. You can eat the eggs after 24 hours, but it's worth pickling for at least three days for maximum flavor. Oh, and don't worry if the garlic turns green or blue. A chemical reaction causes this unexpected color change, and it's totally normal.Flavor to your heart’s desire. Once you've tried the basic recipe below, consider customizing your next batch by using different herbs and spices, making the brine with an alternate vinegar (such as cider or white wine), or adding vegetables to the jar. I tested this recipe with two "add-in" options: onions and jalapeño peppers. The onion-pickled eggs developed a noticeable onion flavor, while the jalapeño (my favorite!) packed a spicy punch. In addition to uniquely flavored eggs, you'll have tasty pickled vegetables, too. I added my pickled onions to a salad, and scattered the jalapeño rings on a pizza.How to Serve Quick-Pickled EggsBring quick-pickled eggs to a picnic or potluck, eat them as a snack, or go retro and serve them as an hors d'oeuvre at your next cocktail party. Turn them into deviled eggs or a sandwich or add them to a cobb or niçoise salad. I also enjoyed mine on top of ramen and in rice and vegetable bowls.In a 1-quart heat-safe glass jar with a lid, combine hard-boiled eggs with dill and garlic.Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezIn a medium saucepan, stir together vinegar, water, sugar, bay leaves, peppercorns, and salt. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves, 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low and simmer until liquid reduces and darkens slightly, 10 minutes.Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCarefully pour hot brine, along with bay leaves and peppercorns, over eggs, garlic, and dill. Cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezCover with a lid and refrigerate until eggs taste and smell vinegary and become beige, for at least 3 days and up to 2 weeks. Refrigerate until ready to serve.Serious Eats / Amanda SuarezVariationsTo make onion-pickled eggs: Peel a small (approximately 130g; 4 1/2 ounce) white onion. Slice into thin rings. Layer with the hard-boiled eggs, then proceed with the recipe as written. To make jalapeño-pickled eggs: Trim and de-seed 1 jalapeño pepper (about 1 ounce; 30g). Thinly slice pepper 1/4-inch crosswise. Layer peppers with hard-boiled eggs and proceed with step 2 above. (For spicier eggs, add 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes to the brine.)Special Equipment1-quart heat-proof jar, medium saucepanNotesYou can make quick-pickled eggs in any lidded glass jar or heat-proof food storage container.8 large hard-boiled eggs fit comfortably in a 1-quart jar, but if you are using smaller eggs, you might have room for 1 to 2 more. Avoid cramming too many eggs into the jar to provide adequate space for the brine to fully surround the eggs. The recipe can easily be doubled. To pickle 16 eggs, use a 2-quart heat-proof jar or two 1-quart containers. Make-Ahead and StorageYou can eat the eggs after 24 hours, but for maximum flavor, refrigerate for at least 3 days before serving.This is a quick pickling recipe, and is not intended for canning or long-term preservation. Store quick-pickled eggs in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
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