The Savory 4-Ingredient Cornmeal Staple That's Fed My Family for Generations
Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineUgali—a supremely satisfying dense cornmeal porridge—is a beloved staple dish in many East and Central African countries, including Kenya and Tanzania. I learned how to make ugali from many women on the Kenyan side of my family: my mother, Katano, my aunt Tilly, and my grandmother, who we call Koko. We’d stand over the stove together and I’d slowly whisk the white cornmeal into a big pot of water while my grandmother constantly stirred the mixture until it thickened. Together we’d flip it onto a platter, slice it, and serve it warm alongside dishes like sukuma wiki (sautéed collard greens) and beef wet fry (meat sautéed with tomato, garlic, and ginger). For me, it's a simple dish that carries the warmth and comfort of home, a true embodiment of family and tradition.Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineWhile ugali can have different names, such as "pap" in Southern Africa, regardless of what it's called this simple dish most often appears in its most basic form: an extremely thick porridge made of just fine white cornmeal and water. In some variations, particularly in Maasai traditions, water can be substituted with stock, or a bit of milk and/or tallow can be added. Here I give instructions for preparing ugali as my family taught me—with just a few pats of butter or ghee and a pinch of salt to season it.Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineTo me, ugali is the perfect meal accompaniment: It’s hearty and satisfying, its simple flavor profile means it pairs well with almost any meal, plus it comes together in only 15 minutes, and requires just four ingredients to make—and one of those ingredients is water! While it’s easy and quick to prepare, there are a few key steps to ensure that your ugali has a smooth and sliceable texture every time you make it. Here are my tips for cooking ugali that even my grandmother Koko would love.4 Tips for Cooking the Best Ugali at Home1. Use fine white cornmeal. To achieve ugali’s silky texture, it’s critical to start with the right type of cornmeal. In Kenya a fine white cornmeal called jogoo or maise meal is used. It’s the go-to cornmeal that is readily available at most markets. Its fine texture ensures the ugali has a smooth mouthfeel. When my family cooks ugali in the US, we make a point to use a fine white cornmeal, such as our favorite, Albers White Corn Meal. Quaker brand white cornmeal is also a good option. I have found fine white cornmeal labeled as harina de maiz in many US markets, which can also be used. Just make sure to not confuse harina de maiz with masa harina. Masa harina is nixtamalized cornmeal, and has a very different flavor than plain white cornmeal. Also make sure to avoid coarse cornmeal, grits, or polenta. These cornmeal options won’t achieve the desired smooth texture and they also require more water and time than listed in the recipe to cook properly.2. Dial in the water to cornmeal ratio to achieve your preferred ugali texture. In Kenya, the consistency of ugali can vary from one household to another. It comes down to personal preference. Some Kenyans prefer ugali very firm, while others, including me and my family, enjoy it when it has a softer texture. The ratio of water to cornmeal is what determines the final texture. With the same cooking time, the more water that is added, the softer the ugali will be. In many Kenyan home’s, ugali is cooked so frequently that home cooks can just eyeball the quantities without measuring. But to achieve ugali that is firm enough to flip out of the pan onto a serving platter without falling apart, while also creamy, it’s important to use two parts water to one part cornmeal by volume to get the perfect consistency every time.3. Cook until a thin starchy film appears before flipping. As the cornmeal porridge cooks it will thicken into a Play-Doh—like texture, a sign that it is almost ready to flip. But the best signifier for when it's finished cooking is when a thin starchy film appears along the bottom and sides of the pan. The is the sign that the starch is cooked to the point where it is gelling and sticking together, so it will hold its shape.4. Serve it as a simple side dish. Ugali’s neutral flavor makes it incredibly versatile. It can be served with almost any protein or vegetable. When ready to serve, cut the ugali into wedges, and serve as a side dish. Ugali can be eaten with a fork or with your hands, and it's great for scooping up other foods. In my family, we enjoy it with beef wet fry and sukuma wiki, as mentioned above, but it also pairs well with most stews, braised meats, and vegetables.Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineIn a medium (3-4 quart) saucepot, bring 4 cups of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add kosher salt. Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in 2 tablespoons of butter or ghee until melted.Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineWhile continuously whisking to prevent lumps from forming, gradually pour in fine white cornmeal. Once all the cornmeal is added, switch to a wooden spoon and stir the ugali, using the spoon to break up any lumps against the side of the pot as needed. Cook, stirring continuously until the water is absorbed and the ugali thickens, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook until the ugali forms a film along the bottom and sides of the pan and is firm enough to hold its shape, 4 to 5 minutes. The texture should be much thicker than polenta or grits and the ugali should hold its shape when pressed with the spoon. Use the wooden spoon to smooth it into an even layer and continue to cook for 1 to 2 minutes.Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineRemove from heat and run a small offset spatula or butter knife along the sides of the pot to loosen the ugali. Hold a large serving plate flush to the pot, then invert the ugali onto the plate. The ugali should easily release from the pot onto the plate. If it doesn’t easily release, return it to the stove top and continue to cook for a few more minutes. Once flipped out, keep it covered with the pot or a large bowl until ready to serve, up to 20 minutes.Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineCut the ugali into wedges, and serve. Serious Eats / Maureen CelestineSpecial EquipmentMedium saucepan (3-4 quarts), whisk, wooden spoon (preferably flat)NotesMake sure to use fine white cornmeal that has not undergone nixtamalization for this recipe. Coarse cornmeal or polenta or nixtamalized cornmeal (such as masa harina) will not achieve the same texture. Albers White Corn Meal is what my family has successfully used in the USA for years.Ugali can be kept warm by covering it with the pot it was cooked in until ready to serve.Make-Ahead and StorageUgali is best enjoyed fresh, but leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat by microwaving wedges covered with a damp paper towel to retain moisture.
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